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Poachers Rope Tech Site Owner?
by Jess Askey 17 Jul '16

17 Jul '16

Hiya all... Does anyone know who runs this site? None of the contact email addresses seem to work from there. https://sites.google.com/site/poachersrope/home thanks... Jess _______________________________________________ Techtoolslist mailing list Techtoolslist(a)flippers.com https://pairlist7.pair.net/mailman/listinfo/techtoolslist FTP site is: ftp://ttl.arcadetech.org/TTL/Test_Equipment Archive site: http://seven.pairlist.net/pipermail/techtoolslist/

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Proel circuit and layout
by Dave Caroline 11 Jul '16

11 Jul '16

I am cataloguing circuits/manuals I have and today dug out a circuit and pcb layout of a 6502 based system marked Proel srl Turino OAW2 a quick google tells me this may be a copy of the Exidy Spectar https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spectar Dave Caroline _______________________________________________ Techtoolslist mailing list Techtoolslist(a)flippers.com https://pairlist7.pair.net/mailman/listinfo/techtoolslist FTP site is: ftp://ttl.arcadetech.org/TTL/Test_Equipment Archive site: http://seven.pairlist.net/pipermail/techtoolslist/

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realtime clock on Fluke 9100A/9100FT
by Tony Jones 09 Jul '16

09 Jul '16

Not sure if this is useful info .... I'll throw it out there for the archives ;-) Both the RTCs on my 9105FT and 9100FT went bad not long after I got them. The original is a Dallas 1287 (same as the IBM PC). It is a discontinued part. I bought a pair of 12887As from eBay which is a commonly used modern day "replacement". The 12887 has two banks of addressable memory (128 bytes vs 64 in the 1287) and the A variant has a RAM clear pin. Anyhow, neither 12887A worked. The system would constantly report at boot that the RTC battery needed replacement, this seems to occur when the 9100 reads null (epoch) data from the RTC. The 9100 is able to tell if it's a new chip as at first boot it instead reports that the RTC is uninitialized. I was floating the RAM clear (per datasheet), so my guess is the second bank was the issue. So it's possible a 1287A would have worked. There is an appnote #503 from Maxim addressing this issue of possible incompatibility. Anyhow, I purchased two 1287s from eBay (china). I was a bit worried about a fake as it's an obsolete chip but they both worked fine. There is also a tutorial out there on breaking open the 1287 packaging and adding an external piggybacked battery. I just desoldered and socketed and went for a replacement chip. HTH Tony _______________________________________________ Techtoolslist mailing list Techtoolslist(a)flippers.com https://pairlist7.pair.net/mailman/listinfo/techtoolslist FTP site is: ftp://ttl.arcadetech.org/TTL/Test_Equipment Archive site: http://seven.pairlist.net/pipermail/techtoolslist/

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Best Trifurcon Crimper?
by Brad Gass 08 Jul '16

08 Jul '16

I'm sick of doing the Molex two-step, and am in dire need of a new terminal crimper. Is the Platinum 16801C still the general consensus of being the best "budget" crimper for Trifurcon/Molex terminals? I'm not opposed to spending a bit more (up to the $60-75 range, maybe $100 if it's *really* worth it) on a different crimper if there is a good reason to go that route. But, I also don't want to buy five different crimpers to find a "good" one if I can avoid it. Thanks for any input and guidance in advance! --Brad _______________________________________________ Techtoolslist mailing list Techtoolslist(a)flippers.com https://pairlist7.pair.net/mailman/listinfo/techtoolslist FTP site is: ftp://ttl.arcadetech.org/TTL/Test_Equipment Archive site: http://seven.pairlist.net/pipermail/techtoolslist/

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wanted asteroids Signature-Analysis for the cat box
by tonyhtbsusa 20 Jun '16

20 Jun '16

asteroids Signature-Analysis cat box I dug out the cat box And am trying to fix a board with a problem in the state machine I found the hp asteroids Signature-Analysis But they do not match Does anyone have the Atari cat box asteroids Signature sheet Also any of the Signature-Analysis for the cat box Would be great also Thanks tony hi-tech Arcade repair _______________________________________________ Techtoolslist mailing list Techtoolslist(a)flippers.com https://pairlist7.pair.net/mailman/listinfo/techtoolslist FTP site is: ftp://ttl.arcadetech.org/TTL/Test_Equipment Archive site: http://seven.pairlist.net/pipermail/techtoolslist/

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Finished: Fluke 900 RTC fix
by Jess Askey 24 May '16

24 May '16

Just a quick follow-up on what I ended up doing with my dead RTC Dallas DS1216B. As I had mentioned NOS DS1216Bs are available on eBay (currently $25+)... but I wanted to have a replaceable battery for the future. I used the internal IC from the DS1216B (which is simply a DS1215 which has been relabeled). The attached pics show my mod... the green wires are the factory Fluke mods for updated clocking, the Red wires are all mine. The end result... It works! Onwards... Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone _______________________________________________ Techtoolslist mailing list Techtoolslist(a)flippers.com https://pairlist7.pair.net/mailman/listinfo/techtoolslist FTP site is: ftp://ttl.arcadetech.org/TTL/Test_Equipment Archive site: http://seven.pairlist.net/pipermail/techtoolslist/

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Re: [Techtoolslist] replacing flat cables/connectors
by sprout.the＠gmail.com 19 May '16

19 May '16

> I had a 6502 pod with the flat cable, and successfully replaced it using > a section of flat cable I cut to length, and using the connector noted by > Tony. The only downside is that instead of having the cable come in the > top/middle of the connector, it comes in the side, which makes it a bit > tricky for some applications, but I?ve had zero issues beyond that > otherwise. > > Hi Brent. Thanks for this. Have you ever seen a 64 pin version of these > connectors? Several companies seem to make a 40 pin "dip plug" (as they > seem to be called) but I've had no luck locating a 64 pin version. > > best > > Tony Tony, Nothing I’ve seen - your best solution may be to have a custom PCB made, and then wire it up manually with the cable of your choice. If you’ve got an old connector you can examine to verify how any pins may be tied together, you could accomplish the same on such a PCB I’d expect. Regards, Brent _______________________________________________ Techtoolslist mailing list Techtoolslist(a)flippers.com https://pairlist7.pair.net/mailman/listinfo/techtoolslist FTP site is: ftp://ttl.arcadetech.org/TTL/Test_Equipment Archive site: http://seven.pairlist.net/pipermail/techtoolslist/

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Re: [Techtoolslist] replacing flat cables/connectors
by Tony Jones 18 May '16

18 May '16

On May 18, 2016 5:16 AM, <sprout.the(a)gmail.com> wrote: > I had a 6502 pod with the flat cable, and successfully replaced it using a section of flat cable I cut to length, and using the connector noted by Tony. The only downside is that instead of having the cable come in the top/middle of the connector, it comes in the side, which makes it a bit tricky for some applications, but I’ve had zero issues beyond that otherwise. Hi Brent. Thanks for this. Have you ever seen a 64 pin version of these connectors? Several companies seem to make a 40 pin "dip plug" (as they seem to be called) but I've had no luck locating a 64 pin version. best Tony _______________________________________________ Techtoolslist mailing list Techtoolslist(a)flippers.com https://pairlist7.pair.net/mailman/listinfo/techtoolslist FTP site is: ftp://ttl.arcadetech.org/TTL/Test_Equipment Archive site: http://seven.pairlist.net/pipermail/techtoolslist/

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Sunday Projects II: Replacing a DS1216B RealTimeClock?
by Jess Askey 18 May '16

18 May '16

Heya.... It has been a busy day for me... one more posting before Game of Thrones comes on..... I have a DS1216B 'SmartWatch' by Dallas/Maxim in my Fluke 900.... These are little real-time-clock IC's with embedded in double height potted 28-DIP that sits under your RAM. In this case, the battery is in the potted bottom part of the socket and is now officially dead, rendering the IC useless for keeping time. Here is a pic of one for reference.. http://sg.rs-online.com/largeimages/R0133242-06.jpg So, I have found a few options and Im curious if any of you have gone down this path before on this device or on others? (SG motherboards have a similar chip, Bally gambling machines, Apple IIE/C, etc)... Option #1: Buy an NOS DS1216B from Ebay... they are pretty cheap.... $15, but they have date codes from the late 80's.... likelihood of the battery being solid.... Poor. Option #2: Look at this cool thing that the Apple collectors made.. https://www.ultimateapple2.com/catalogzen154/index.php?main_page=product_in… . More expensive $45, but has a small replaceable battery Option #3: Hack into mine and try and put a larger (and longer life 3.6V Lithium battery on it). Cheap, but hacky.... Mounting a battery clip to my PCB with epoxy or double sided tape sounds problematic (maybe) Option #4: anyone else know of more options? Right now Im leaning towards #2 or #3, It doesn't matter if I destroy mine, it is already dead and I have it off the device motherboard now too. #3 would be good if I could secure the battery decently on my motherboard (it will be hanging upside down too, so the double sided tape definitely is not a good idea. _______________________________________________ Techtoolslist mailing list Techtoolslist(a)flippers.com https://pairlist7.pair.net/mailman/listinfo/techtoolslist FTP site is: ftp://ttl.arcadetech.org/TTL/Test_Equipment Archive site: http://seven.pairlist.net/pipermail/techtoolslist/

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Sunday Project: Fluke 9010A Probe
by Jess Askey 17 May '16

17 May '16

(I sent this on Sunday originally, but I think it didn't come through because I sent it from my non-subscribed email address, apologies if you got it twice) Hey Folks... I thought I would share my Sunday project. I did cheat and pre-order all my parts for today(minus a couple things I wasn't aware of, more details below). Since the Fluke 9010A probes are hard to come by these days, I figured I would make one... I bought the following.. Pictures are here... http://www.askey.org/fluke_probe/ - 15' DB9 Male to Male Serial Cable (I can cut this in two and make two probes I figure) - $5, free shipping - Old WaveTek slim Logic Probe (I had one, but I bought another one of these off ebay for $10) - Some old RadShack perf boards that I had laying around - About 4 hours of time Then I did the following... (see pics above) 1. Cut the perf board down to 5 rows wide, drilled the mounting holes. Make sure you have a nice row down the middle for the LED's to line up properly (centered) 2. The break-away seam in the 'double' perf board was unfortunately right in the middle of where the LED's had to go. So if you can get solid perf board, it would probably work better. I had this laying around. 3. Split the Logic Probe, took out the RED and GREEN LED's and the tip off the old Logic Probe PCB 4. Assembled the circuit using page 142 of the 9010A Service Manual a. I had to sub in 1uf caps for the power supply filters (spec was .39uf). If you got smaller caps, they would fit better, I had to lie mine down. b. I didn't have a 205K 1% Metal Film Resistor, I used a 220K 5% CC resistor and I will sub after my next mouser order c. I also didn't have a 33pf cap, I used a 47pf from a scrap Firefox PCB (don't worry, it was in pretty rough shape anyway) d. I added 1.2K resistors on the Cathode side of the LED's since these were driven by transistors to 'maybe lamps??'... the schematic says they are lamps, but I have a hard time believing this. In hindsight, these may not be needed at all. 5. I used an old clip lead for the ground clip out the back too... ironically, both cables seemed to fit pretty nicely out the back of the old Logic Probe case 6. I fashioned a 'strain relief' by looping the nylon cable backer and crimping and epoxying it. I ended up doing it different from the pic as my loop had to be on the very back logic probe screw post, so it had to be much shorter and the yellow crimp was too big for the space. I just looped the nylon and wrapped it tight with a resistor lead, then dipped the whole thing in 5-minute epoxy and let it harden. Seems pretty solid. Seems to work fine... the LED's are definitely dim but usable so I will pull those resistors out or lower them appropriately. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions... Im going to make another one with lessons learned. :) PS - I cleaned my bench spotless on Friday night after eating a bunch of edible pot (I live in Colorado :) so I can tell you this).... It didn't look right.. but... luckily, after this project, it is now back to looking 'normal'...whew!! _______________________________________________ Techtoolslist mailing list Techtoolslist(a)flippers.com https://pairlist7.pair.net/mailman/listinfo/techtoolslist FTP site is: ftp://ttl.arcadetech.org/TTL/Test_Equipment Archive site: http://seven.pairlist.net/pipermail/techtoolslist/

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